Down From the Mountain

Proud of my safe descent from the mountain pass, I made my way across the northern Albanian plains to my next destination: a bridge. At the same time, that loss of the time I spent in Theth, coupled with a hungry knowledge I had not seen nearly enough of the mountain valley to satisfy my wanderlust, sat still lodged in my chest like the limestone rock I photographed lodged in a tree trunk.

I wondered why I was moved nearly to tears.

For most of my journey, I followed the same road out that I travelled in to the mountain pass. And, yes, this is Albania. So at times travel meant slowing for passing cows or spotting chickens on the roundabout. It is just part of the topography like limestone.

Eventually, though, it was time to turn off to the bridge. This meant trusting Google Maps. Admittedly this felt like a shot in the dark, but seeing as I was alone and had no fixed arrival time in Shkoder, I had the time to get lost.

And in general the map led me in the right direction, except for that part where it tried to take me the wrong way on a one way road. I stubbornly refused that option, knowing the map would adapt to my driving behaviour, and we found a reasonable way around.

And of course, the road felt more like a path with back roads once I was off the freeway.

I passed family garden after family garden spilling dark fig trees and light olive branches over ancient stone walls, along with people walking or cycling along the roads. I was in the heart of the country here, and it pulsed.

The road led at last to my destination: the Mesi Bridge, an Ottoman era treasure that spans the Kir River. I was lucky to find parking just before the bridge, by several friendly looking dogs sleeping in the warm shade of a humid afternoon. Parking, I ate some of my travel foods and then took my camera gear with me out of the car to walk over to the bridge.

The road I’d parked next to continued on a newer bridge parallel to the Mesi Bridge, so it was obscured from my view until I crossed the road and began to walk down a staircase to the bridge. There it spread, across the dry river gorge, with tourists walking back and forth like soldiers keeping watch.

I saw that not only was it walkable, but so were the surrounding areas at the base of it by the arches. Not only that, but I could also cross the newer bridge and take photos from there, too.

The air was warm but not unpleasant yet. I walked first to the base of the bridge by the arches and photographed there, allowing a larger group of tourists to leave. Thunder rippled through the dry river bed suddenly, so I turned and scanned the horizon. Behind me, the sky was fierce, as were the clouds in the direction of the mountains I’d just left.

Many of the other tourists cleared out. I crossed the bridge, feeling the smooth and varied stones under the flop-flop step of my flat Saltwater Sandals. Then I photographed from the other side, and found a dog resting in the shade of the base of the bridge. He looked up expectantly so I photographed him too.

From there, I walked back across the bridge, taking in both sides of it and the approaching storm. It was time to get back to the car.

Google Maps told me to just turn around and go out the way I came, but I knew that was once again a bit of a one way bottleneck. So I drove over the bridge parallel to the Mesi Bridge, and took a country route back to Shkodër while the rain began pelting down. Backroads and thunderstorms, I thought. What a combination.

At one point, the road crossed the river on a single lane track, and cars at one side had to wait until the other side was clear before they could pass over. I waited a long time there.

Finally, with rain still beating down, I reached my hotel in Shkodër. To my slight surprise, there was no private parking like I’d read in the description. And it was located near a busy roundabout, which meant on-street parking was limited. Since I was unsure of the parking regulations, I drove first down one side street and then another in search of a place big enough for my minivan, but to no avail. So I pulled over and did a simple Google search for a nearby parking lot. There was one within 5 minutes walk of the hotel!

I drove there, and backed in carefully because I prefer pulling out of an unfamiliar parking spot instead of backing out. An older man stepped out of a car to guide my parking, though I did not need him to know I was well within the lines. But since he just stood up suddenly and then got back into his car, I figured that this was a paid parking spot.

I first tried to wait out the rain. I caught up on some socials, posted some pictures, maybe did my LinkedIn games. But the rain continued, and I needed to check in at my hotel. I’d brought a rain jacket, one of the jackets with the highest rating at Decathlon that I’d borrowed from my daughter. So, I put that on, got my camera gear with camera on a strap across my body, and stepped out of my car.

Sure enough, it was a paid lot. And the old man did not speak English. We worked out together that it would be 300 LEK for 3 units of something but I only had larger bills. So I promised I would pay him when I got back and he took my word for it. Then I set off for the hotel down the street.

The rain continued heavily, and water rushed down open concrete ditches on either side of the road. This is not how I envisioned reaching Shkodër, I thought ruefully as I tried to keep my camera gear as protected as possible. Within minutes, the rain coat no longer mattered because I was soaked.

The hotel had a cafe downstairs I had to walk through. Streaming water everywhere, I pulled open the doors and squelched across the restaurant to the kitchen to ask for the hotel. From there, I was led to a desk and small office at the back of the restaurant for check-in.

I noticed I was pooling water on their clean white tile floor. I apologised, and we finished the check-in process. Then I apologised again and realised it would do me no good to continue to apologise for the weather. She gave me the key to my room, and led me upstairs. There, once she left, I removed my soaked jeans and set them on the chair, turned on the airco, and hung up the soaked rain coat for a quick dry.

Presently, the hotel receptionist came back to tell me there was a parking spot now available in front of the hotel. We made sure I had accurate change, plus a little extra, for the attendant at the car park and then she asked me my car size. I told her it was a Volkswagen minivan, and she said the spot might not be big enough. Then she advised me to park on the side street I’d driven earlier.

It was no longer raining, and I was ready to bring the rest of my things into my room, so I walked to the car park, paid the attendant, and parked my car on the side street. After taking my suitcases up to my room, I decided to go souvenir shopping in Shkodër. Lavinia had asked for me to bring stones back with me, and I’d explained I’d do my best but that I would not be taking them from the national park as that’s not allowed. I picked up my camera gear to photograph along the way.

I’d found a recommended souvenir shop, and the route passed the paid car park I’d just left. As I passed it for the third time that day, the old parking attendant stood talking with men by the entrance. We shared a head nod to each other and I carried on into the centre of the city, reflecting briefly on how life and solo travel had forced me to develop a bit of steel in that soul.

The centre of Shkodër was full of tables for dining and walkways by old storefronts. I easily found the shop I wanted, and entered to look around. The first thing I found was the best solution for Lavinia: a fridge magnet with precious metals from a mine in Kosovo that formed the shape of Albania on a piece of wood. ‘Perfect,’ I thought, ‘rocks for Lavinia and a portable size.’ Then I found two other magnets for Maxwell and Amia. For Tyrus, who was still serving as a missionary for my faith in Belgium/Netherlands area, I knew a magnet wouldn’t be particularly helpful. So I kept looking.

For Tom, I found him a sturdy canvas apron covered in Albanian sites, instruments, dancers, and more. He loves baking and is the chef in house, so this was perfect for him, too. Then I found a bag for Tyrus in blue, his favourite colour, that said Albania in it. It was just the right size for pens, receipts, or coins and it would easily fit in a suitcase, both mine and his.

Lastly, I bought something for myself. I saw a silver necklace with the double headed Albanian eagle and I knew I wanted it. I am not allergic to silver. After driving those mountain passes so carefully, I felt like it was time for a reward. Not only that, but I was supporting the local economy. Lastly, I knew that this first trip to Albania marked a threshold experience for my own development and future. I did not know what that meant yet, but I knew this was the change.

The shopkeeper told me that all silver is paid by weight, and he let me choose the eagle size and chain size that I wanted. Then he weighed it all on a scale, showed me his calculations and the final price, and I paid for my souvenirs. Then he and I started talking a bit more.

He said he’d seen the fierce thunderstorm the night before, too, from his home in Shkodër. In fact, he’d watched from his bedroom as the lightning rod of his neighbour’s house was struck several times. Then he asked me about my photography, and I showed him some of my in camera images, explaining that raw photos were like cookie dough before it was baked. Half done. The photos excited him, and he gave me some recommendations of where to walk to find the best doorways in the old town.

I thanked him, and set out to wander some more in my slightly dry jeans with a happy little bag of souvenirs in hand.

Walking in and out of side streets, and through light drizzles of more rain, I made my way around the heart of Shkodër, stopping occasionally to take photos. Eventually, the fatigue of two early mornings, the hikes, and driving caught up to me. I walked back to my hotel room to rest, but could not sleep. There was so much to take in.

At this time, my friend messaged me to say she had reached Shkodër and was doing some shopping at one of her favourite clothes shops first. I hopped up, picked up my camera gear, and set off to meet her in the city for the evening.

I’d seen just the place for dinner earlier on my walk.

Know before you go:

• Albania is a cash market. You can easily find ATMs in many cities and the airport, and you’ll get the best rate in the cities. Do not convert to euros as it’s just as easy to carry LEK. If you have a Revolut card, you can also pay at some locations.

• Not all water is safe to drink. Use good judgement and, if necessary, buy water at the grocery stores.

• Not all diesel is created equal, and fuel quality varies a lot by station. Fill up at large, reputable stations in the cities or on main highways, not small rural ones, and top up before heading into the mountains. My rental company advised asking for the best quality 'Greek' or 'Shell' diesel and keeping receipts. Shell is new to Albania (arriving through the Kastrati network), and its stations carry premium fuel, so a Shell or Kastrati station is a safe bet.

• Stay in Albania when travelling with a rental auto, as accidentally travelling outside Albania can incur extra costs. Always read your rental contract.

• Before travelling, download the Google Map of the area you’ll be going to your phone.

• Google Maps is not always reliable so keep your eyes open and trust your instincts

• Also consider downloading any Spotify playlists to your phone.

• Charge and carry power banks.

• Albania is outside the EU, so plan for a local SIM or extra coverage from your own provider. I bought extra coverage through my provider, KPN, before I went on vacation.

• Carry reliable food for the mountains and long drives, supplement with dinners you trust. For managing my gastroparesis, I carried shelf stable snacks and foods with me like protein powder, squeezie applesauces, tuna salads, and Clif bars.

• Bring hand sanitiser and a pack of toilet paper. You can buy wet toilet paper at the stores. When in the mountains, paper napkins might be placed outside of toilets so check before you go.

The Details

Auto Rental: Auto Rent Bala, Rruga Kastriotët, Tirana 1050, Albania

Theth Accommodation: Villa Molla, Rruga Gjecaj, Theth 4027, Albania

Blue Eye Parking: Franc’s Bar, 9Q39+W7 Nderlysa, Albania

Mesi Bridge: 4H7F+RX Boks, Albania

Shkodër Accommodation: SANTO Hotel, Rruga Marin Bicikemi, Shkodër, Albania

Shkodër Souvenir Shop: Souvenir Albania, Rruga Kolë Idromeno, Shkodër, Albania

Catholic Church: Metropolitan Archdiocese of Shkodër - Cathedral of Saint Stephen: Sheshi “Gjon Pali II”, Shkodër 4000, Albania

My church: Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints: Rruga Gerej 19, Shkodër 4001, Albania

Shkodër Restaurant: Arti Zavane, Rruga Berdicej 4001, Shkodër, Albania

Patokut Restaurant: Aroma Patokut, Patok Patok, Laç 4706, Albania

Fuel Stations: ESP Oil, Bolv Oil, Coral, Elda, Kastrati

Taxi: Clean Taxi: Kompleksi Dinamo, Tirana 1000, Albania

Hello, World!