Cloud by Day, Fire by Night

I woke in the night to flashes of light and the feeling of thunder rolling around the small alpine valley like dough in a mixer. The weather was changing, as predicted. The thunderstorm was the element of surprise in that forecast. Victor’s words about the changeable mountains came back to me as I lay in the comfortable, half empty bed. The weather does not always follow the forecast, and it changes quickly, he’d warned.

Aware of heightened exposure in the mountains because I was sleeping with my windows open, I was nonetheless not afraid of the storm. Victor had told me of others not so lucky with storms. After wonder and awareness, I had the luxury of falling back to sleep surrounded by fresh ozone.

Until the early morning, again.

As soon as a suggestion of impending dawn registered in my senses, I was awake and hanging out of the balcony window again. This time, my morning view was full of low hanging clouds that partially obscured the view of the mountainside opposite me, like some great and gentle game of peekaboo.

The clouds shifted and drifted like the tail end of a herd of sheep that had lost its way and straggled behind the rest. The change in the air was tactile.

Autumn was speaking more loudly.

I dressed and put on my sandals. My hiking boots I put to the side. As someone who prefers to sit crosslegged and barefoot, I wanted something else today. Plus, I reasoned, I was driving out to the valley today where it would certainly be hotter. I needed sandals.

Then I grabbed my camera gear and headed out the front door, determined to capture the mists and river before breakfast.

I took the road down to the next guesthouse, which was surrounded by lovely blooming flowers. Here I hesitated a moment. Two young men came out of the door of the guesthouse; hosts not guests I could tell. I asked them the way to the river and they said to continue a bit to the left, then take the road down and it would be clear in front of me.

More of those clear roads, I guessed.

I set across the wet grass on the way they’d indicated, careful of my sandals that I quickly realised were tractionless on the bottom.

But the mist was lifting as the sun rose higher, so I was committed to the part.

The terrain suddenly became steeper and I followed a stream that began more quickly to descend.

First, I noticed the way the trees clung to the mountain side with their strong, tangled and moss covered roots. Then, I noticed the largest snail I’d ever seen in the wild crossing my path. It was almost the length of my hand, but when I set my hand near to get a photo and show the scale of it, it began to retract itself and I realised I was distressing it. No worries, I’d just photograph it without me getting too close.

To my right, the hillside spilled downward and was filled with sun and cloud. To my left, trees and rock and moss defined the breadth of the path. I continued down with care on the wet rock and mud.

Presently I came to an old stile over a wire fence. I could climb these, I remembered. So I scampered over to a narrow path between fences. This path descended even more quickly, and entered a treeline. Presently, my sandaled feet were squishing through overripe fruit on stone and mud. I realised I was glad it was still early morning because this kind of bounty was exactly the sort to attract drunken wasps where I was from.

The path turned suddenly right with a drop-off, a makeshift handrail made of branches that was no longer physically attached to anything, and slippery stairs that descended into a sudden jungle like river bottom with a wooden plank path headed off between large leafed plants. I got low into a squat to make the turn, with my feet and hands on the ground for stability. Now I wish I’d worn the hiking boots. But what was done was done.

With only one little slip where heaven flashed before my eyes, I made the turn and grabbed the branch railing. Avoiding an ever increasing number of giant snails (because who would ever want to step on one of those?), I made it down without falling or dropping any camera gear.

Crossing the planks, I finally made it to the riverbed. This was low and dry in large portions due to the summer and drought, but I kept going just a bit across the stones until I reached flowing water and a bridge.

‘This must be the broken bridge that Victor warned me about,’ I thought to myself as I surveyed the way that branches had been dragged in front of the crossing. I remembered our conversation from the first night, too. Stiles were for crossing. Fences were for respecting, even if they took forms that did not look like the fences I’d recognise as fences back home.

So, I did the most logical thing, and I photographed the bridge.

Then I decided to go back up for breakfast. I was fascinated by the river valley, but registered not only breakfast, but the fact that the break between storms would only last so long and I was keen to avoid the mountain summit during a storm like the storm last night. Given how low and thick the clouds were, visibility would be terribly limited on such a pass.

Not only that, but despite being very good with way finding, I knew that it would be easy to get disoriented down here with all of the growth and the rocks, interspersed with occasional board paths, fishing setups, or gates.

So, with the sigh of someone who’s not explored near enough but has obligations to keep, I turned around.

The climb which was intended only to be a walk was fine on the way back up, though my trouser hems and sandals were completely soaked. And it was naturally slow, because there was so much to stop and investigate or photograph.

I enjoyed my breakfast of fresh local cheeses, fruit, and other Albanian breakfast foods though the regret was already welling in my throat.

Then, I told Victor I’d be leaving around 9am because that’s when there was the least rain forecast. He begrudgingly agreed that was the best plan given the weather. I excitedly told him I’d already been to the river that morning before breakfast and he was surprised. Then I told him I’d found the broken bridge and his shock suddenly shifted to concern. ‘You didn’t cross it, did you?!’ he exclaimed.

I reassured him that I did not, though I did photograph it. He breathed a sigh of relief. Apparently I was unpredictable. Of course, that might have already registered with a solo middle aged traveller who stepped out of the minivan two days before.

I paid for my meals on my tab, collected my suitcases, and then it was time to say goodbye. Sudden loss welled up in my chest. It felt illogical because I knew I would never belong in this mountain valley, and that it tests every inhabitant who enters. Still, I’d found something here. I saw the valley and its dangers pragmatically, and yet I acknowledged that I’d awoken early each morning for it and worshipped it until I fell asleep each night, in the room that smelled like my grandparents’ home in the big woods.

Victor and I looked at each other. I told him it was nowhere near enough time to get to know and enjoy Theth. Then, he gave me a big hug and he told me that I needed to come back, this time with the whole family. I agreed.

Then I got into my car, sat still, and prayed that I could leave Theth even though I had no desire to, and that I could travel the mountain path safely. Armed with that confidence and the unexpected feeling of loss, I drove out and carefully up the mountains.

Instead of thick clouds, my way up the mountain was feted with thin banks of mist punctured by rays of clear sun and pine trees. It was the most beautiful drive I’ve seen. Once I reached the top of the mountain pass, I parked the car and got out to stretch and shake off the first half of the switchbacks. The valley behind me was now once again obscured in cloud, and the valley on the other side stood open for exploring.

It was time to make my way down to the valley.

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Know before you go:

• Albania is a cash market. You can easily find ATMs in many cities and the airport, and you’ll get the best rate in the cities. Do not convert to euros as it’s just as easy to carry LEK. If you have a Revolut card, you can also pay at some locations.

• Not all water is safe to drink. Use good judgement and, if necessary, buy water at the grocery stores.

• Not all diesel is created equal, and fuel quality varies a lot by station. Fill up at large, reputable stations in the cities or on main highways, not small rural ones, and top up before heading into the mountains. My rental company advised asking for the best quality 'Greek' or 'Shell' diesel and keeping receipts. Shell is new to Albania (arriving through the Kastrati network), and its stations carry premium fuel, so a Shell or Kastrati station is a safe bet.

• Stay in Albania when travelling with a rental auto, as accidentally travelling outside Albania can incur extra costs. Always read your rental contract.

• Before travelling, download the Google Map of the area you’ll be going to your phone.

• Google Maps is not always reliable so keep your eyes open and trust your instincts

• Also consider downloading any Spotify playlists to your phone.

• Charge and carry power banks.

• Albania is outside the EU, so plan for a local SIM or extra coverage from your own provider. I bought extra coverage through my provider, KPN, before I went on vacation.

• Carry reliable food for the mountains and long drives, supplement with dinners you trust. For managing my gastroparesis, I carried shelf stable snacks and foods with me like protein powder, squeezie applesauces, tuna salads, and Clif bars.

• Bring hand sanitiser and a pack of toilet paper. You can buy wet toilet paper at the stores. When in the mountains, paper napkins might be placed outside of toilets so check before you go.

The Details

Auto Rental: Auto Rent Bala, Rruga Kastriotët, Tirana 1050, Albania

Theth Accommodation: Villa Molla, Rruga Gjecaj, Theth 4027, Albania

Blue Eye Parking: Franc’s Bar, 9Q39+W7 Nderlysa, Albania

Mesi Bridge: 4H7F+RX Boks, Albania

Shkodër Accommodation: SANTO Hotel, Rruga Marin Bicikemi, Shkodër, Albania

Shkodër Souvenir Shop: Souvenir Albania, Rruga Kolë Idromeno, Shkodër, Albania

Catholic Church: Metropolitan Archdiocese of Shkodër - Cathedral of Saint Stephen: Sheshi “Gjon Pali II”, Shkodër 4000, Albania

My church: Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints: Rruga Gerej 19, Shkodër 4001, Albania

Shkodër Restaurant: Arti Zavane, Rruga Berdicej 4001, Shkodër, Albania

Patokut Restaurant: Aroma Patokut, Patok Patok, Laç 4706, Albania

Fuel Stations: ESP Oil, Bolv Oil, Coral, Elda, Kastrati

Taxi: Clean Taxi: Kompleksi Dinamo, Tirana 1000, Albania